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Nepalese team makes first successful winter ascent of K2 (theguardian.com)
chrisseaton 1186 days ago [-]
Wow Nirmal Purja, former British Army Royal Gurkha Rifles and Royal Navy Social Boat Service. The first Gurkha to pass SBS selection as well, I believe, and was there as recently as 2018.
mhh__ 1185 days ago [-]
One of my father's relatives commanded Gurkhas a while ago, but no stories to pass on other than how almost unbelievably tough they are.

It's a genuine disgrace how long it took to treat them as anything other than cannon fodder. We give them VCs but they couldn't actually guarantee residence in Britain until not long ago.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gurkha_Justice_Campaign

mazokum 1186 days ago [-]
Sadly, a Spanish climber of the expedition (not on the party that made the ascent) perished when descending from acclimation.

https://spainsnews.com/spanish-sergi-mingote-dies-after-suff...

dillondoyle 1186 days ago [-]
Some of these articles describing the K2 'downclimb' seems crazier than the ascent; indescribably difficult, dangerous, skilled, exposed, etc.

https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2014/09/04/k2-descending-re... https://i1.wp.com/www.alanarnette.com/blog/wp-content/upload... https://i0.wp.com/www.alanarnette.com/blog/wp-content/upload...

Imagine your brain being basically dead from lack of oxygen, medical danger like HAPE.

It looks like it there are even (? fully ?) vertical fixed rope pitches and going up actual technical climbing one article says a 5.9 offwidth ?!?! In -50F windy winter conditions wearing giant bulky winter suits.

If you've ever been sport climbing can you image descending multiple miles on a rope, even if kind of crawling backwards using feet/hands?

Climbers forget to tie knots in the end ALL THE TIME. Brad Gobright was one of the best climbers who was known for free soloing here in the Front Range (e.g. no ropes at all, like Honnold up El Cap) recently died on a rope descent.

Imagine on multiple miles of roped descent many knots, transfers, while you can't think from no oxygen. It's an truly impressive almost inhuman feat.

systemvoltage 1185 days ago [-]
On one hand, I am truly inspired by the feat of achievement of this caliber, at the same time it leaves me with feeling of mournful contempt like a Gladiator fight where someone is going to die.
throwawaysea 1186 days ago [-]
Nirmal Purja is an incredible athlete, and I find it strange that his achievements (like climbing all 8000+ meter peaks within six months) aren’t better known. He recently released a book, for those interested: https://www.nimsdai.com/beyond-possible-book
thesilentsun 1186 days ago [-]
I think it's due to the style of climbing he is doing. Typically people become much more familiar with more 'alpine' style climbing (fast and lightweight). If he were climbing these peaks without fixed lines I'm sure he'd be much bigger. Not to take away from the accomplishments.
voisin 1186 days ago [-]
Is this the same route that Colin O’Brady was attempting?
jordanmarshall 1186 days ago [-]
Yes, and still is attempting. He and his climbing partner used the weather window to make another acclimatization rotation up to camp 2. I believe they are at base camp now.
amelius 1186 days ago [-]
farseer 1186 days ago [-]
Global warming kind of made it inevitable
briandear 1186 days ago [-]
Makes it a lot harder. The snow and ice is far less stable. Mont Blanc for example, is treacherous with rockfall when temperatures are warm on the mountain.
hprotagonist 1186 days ago [-]
often, weather instability makes high alpine pursuits harder, not easier.
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